Tsé Bii' Ndzisgaii, Valley of the Rocks in Navajo, straddles the Utah-Arizona border and it is heralded by both. The reason? Monument Valley is the icon of the American West. Here, cowboys and Indians come alive. And formations such as The Mittens, east and west, and Totem Pole are no less impressive in person than on the big screen. Yet Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, as the area open to the public is known, often disappoints. Hiking is restricted to Wildcat Trail, an easy 3.2-mile loop around West Mitten Butte. Vehicles are only permitted on Valley Drive, a poorly maintained 17-mile dirt road that more often than not requires a 4-wheel drive. The visitor center and nearby picturesque points have a claustrophobic feel when the tour bus crowd arrives. Guided tours – jeep, horse and balloon - are exorbitantly priced. In short, a tourist trap. But if you dig deep into your wallet and select a tour that will engage the kids and get you off the beaten path you are likely to be rewarded 10 times over. It’s the only way to get backstage at this movie set.