Tsé Bii' Ndzisgaii, Valley of the Rocks in Navajo, straddles the Utah-Arizona border and it is heralded by both. The reason? Monument Valley is the icon of the American West. Here, cowboys and Indians come alive. What's more, the awe-inspiring towers, spires and buttes are as impressive in person as on the big screen. So why are some travelers disappointed? Digging deep into your wallet is the only way to get backstage. Hiking in Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is restricted to Wildcat Trail, an easy 3.2-mile loop around West Mitten Butte. Vehicles are permitted on Valley Drive only, a poorly maintained 17-mile dirt road that more often than not requires a 4-wheel drive. The visitor center and picturesque points near the park entrance are regularly overrun by the tour bus crowd. Guided tours - jeep, horse and balloon - are exorbitantly priced.