The scene of a great battle and massacre in the mid 18th century, Shela (also spelled Shella) is today a refuge for well-heeled tourists in the know. Situated on the northwest tip of Lamu Island, this tiny village with but a minaret is in the throws of a high-end tourist boom. The old houses, many of which have been bought by foreigners, are now extravagant holiday homes. And while many have been stylishly refurbished, there is only way to describe others, kitsch. But don't let the jet set deter you; the trek along the dirt lane from Lamu leads you right to the beach, an endless stretch of sand that is accessible to everyone.